Published in: Helsingin Sanomat, 11th of September, 2004

 - THE CONVENT IS LIKE A FAIRY TALE CASTLE

- THE HISTORY OF SOLOVETSK IS A DARK AND GLORIOUS

- Solovetsk, Russia. A big white splashes in between the waves one time then a second time and even a third time. The side of the white whale in the sea draws out every tourist to watch this giant of the sea. If the whales happen to be somewhere else, the three hour boat trip to Solovetsk island in the white sea, gives you an opportunity to watch birds and seals.

- The Solovetsk island group is made out of three bigger islands and from a several smaller ones. In the main island, the landscape is dominated by a convent, with it's massive walls, guard towers and cupolas shining in the sun. The whole convent looks like from a fairy tale. In the yard of the convent, a visitor is greeted by a lazy looking cat. Happy tinkling and clacking is filling the air, as the place is being renovated to it's past glory. Here and there the long bearded monks are walking in their black gowns, bringing in a small glimpse to the long history of the convent. The convent which is listed in the UNESCO world heritage list, was established in the 15th century, when a monk who was looking for silence, established a new sanctuary to this remote place in north. During it's most glorious moments, the Solovetsk convent was the richest in Russia. It is told, that during the 19th century, some 15 000 to 25 000 people made a pilgrimage to this place every year. After the October revolution, the convent was occupied, the religious symbols destroyed and the treasures from the convent were shipped to other locations. The renovation work was started in the 1960's, when the historical meaning of the Solovetsk convent was understood again. The beautiful construction can be seen for example in the church of the convent. The gilding in the icon which contains five layers, keeps inside hundreds of kilos of gold, which have been returned to the convent. The convent opened it's doors again in the early part of the 1990's, after being closed for 70 years. 

- From here you can also find the church bell of Manamasalo, which was robbed in the 16th century. The persistent rumors claim, that the church bell would be in the bottom of the Oulu-lake, when it accidentally slipped from the robbers. The fate of the church bell didn't came clear until in the early part of the 1990's, when a Finnish group found it from Solovetsk. The most dark part of the Solovetsk, makes a tourist a very quiet one. This dark part in the history is remained in the museum walls, that contain pictures from men and women, who suffered a cruel fate in the Stalin purges. The pictures are taken before the purges started. Around 100 000 prisoners were held in the Solovetsk island, in a very primitive and cramped conditions. Solovetsk was a prison camp from 1923 to 1937. The intelligentsia, church men and dissidents were kept here. About half of them were killed here. The relatives have brought flowers, notes and items in front of the pictures. The guard forbids to take pictures from this part of the convent. A visitor is also deeply impressed by the highest point of the island, which is located ten kilometers from the convent. The prisoners of this island, were most afraid of being punished and sent to the bear cabin, which was located on the highest point of the island. These people can be remembered by visiting the Sekirnja Holy Mountain church, which is build to the place. While descending the 365 steps down to the memorial of those who were killed, you can only imagine the horror and suffering of the tortured prisoners. The guards would tie the prisoner to a log and push down the stairs or down the steep slope.

- While traveling back from Solovets, you have the three hour boat trip to think about the very beautiful Solovetsk convent and island. The beauty combined with it's cruel and horrible history, forces one to stop for a while and think.

- Solovetsk is located in the White Sea, some 160 kilometers south from the arctic circle. You can take a boat to the island from Arkhangel, Belomorsk or from Rabocheostrovsk. The shortest journey goes from Rabocheostrovsk and the 40 kilometer boat trip takes depending on the ship, from three hours to four hours. There's also a helicopter ride available for those, who want to get to the island quickly. In the winter time, the helicopter or a plane is the only way to the island. The Russians have been able to visit Solovetsk since the 1960's, but for foreigners the island wasn't opened until in the early part of the 1990's. About 20 000 tourists visit the island every year. Most of them are Russians, but also Finns are visiting the island more and more. Also some French, Italians, Norwegians and Americans are visiting the place now and then. From the Russian people living nearby, there's only few who have visited the island, as it's a way too expensive to travel to the island.

- There's about a thousand people who are living in the islands around the year. In the summer time, the amount of people is doubled. In the summer time the most important income comes from the tourists and in the winter time fishing and a small scale seaweed industry are the main incomes. Solovetsk can be reached through a many Finnish travel agencies, as it's part of a tour in Russia. The journeys usually start from Salla, Kuusamo and Kuhmo. Going to the trip, you better be prepared to sit in a bus for a quite a while as for example the car trip from Salla to Rabocheostrovsk, takes from the early morning hours to the late evening, using the bumpy roads. There's three hotels in Rabocheostrovsk and six in Solovetsk. 

- There's also trips arranged to the White Sea, to observe the whales. The islands of Solovetsk are part of a preservation area and there's many lakes, ponds and channels to visit.